Though it's been around for a few hundred years, corduroy is still in wardrobes year after year. It's likely that you have spotted it on collars in Delhi markets, in the campus corridors of Pune, or on blazers in Bengaluru office purchases. But if somebody asked you, what is corduroy fabric? It's well known by most people by feeling it — its soft, slightly ridged, ribbed surface — but few know why it's so different from other materials.
This article will have all the answers to its history, construction, how to wear it in Indian weather and how to take care of it properly.
The Origin and Evolution of Corduroy Fabric
This article explores the origin of corduroy cloth and its evolution over time.
The origin of corduroy is in Europe, and France is frequently considered the birthplace of corduroy. The reason for its name is unknown but is believed to be corde du roi, meaning ‘cord of the king' in French. What is clear is that by the 18th century it had become a fabric of the working class in Britain for its durability and warmth.
It wasn't just a luxury fabric from the beginning. Worn by miners, farmers, and factory workers, it was durable. In the 20th century corduroy found its way into the mainstream fashion. It was in the 70s and it was all over — suits, flares, children's schoolwear. It fell out of style for a while, but has since reemerged, subtly in the 2000s and now in good form.
Corduroy was introduced to India mainly by the influence of western fashion. Now it has become a permanent part of the Indian textile industry notably for the winter segment of the country where states like Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, and Punjab are located. October to February is a good time to buy corduroy in cities such as Ludhiana and Amritsar.
The Weave: A Technical Perspective of Corduroy Material
It's important to know what corduroy is made of.
Corduroy fabric is a cut pile fabric. When weaving, surplus yarn is interwoven parallel with the bottom cloth in the weaving. These rows are then cut, and the fibres stand up and create the distinctive ridges (wales). The closer and finer the wale, the more delicate the fabric will appear. The wider wales add bulk and lounge to the look.
Corduroy has a basic foundation of either a plain weave or twill weave. The pile is placed on top of this base. The difference between corduroy and velvet — another cut-pile fabric — is that the corded pile is formed in distinct rows, and not all over the surface.
To measure the count of a fabric, the number of ridges per inch is counted. The line count is typically between 1.5 (very wide, even "elephant wale") and 21 (ultra-fine pinwale). Most garments will use corduroy material ranging from 8 to 14 wales per inch.
Elevate Your Wardrobe: The Benefits of Corduroy Material Style
That's why corduroy has stood the test of time: there are advantages to it.
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Durability: The cut-pile manufacturing process means it is wear resistant. With proper care, a well-made pair of corduroy trousers will last for 3 seasons of normal wear.
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Insulation: The ridged surface holds the air in place creating a natural insulation. That's why corduroy makes a good winter fabric, as it is warm but not as bulky as wool.
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Texture and interest of visuals: For a more textured look, opt for a corduroy jacket or trousers, which won't require prints or embellishments. Indian workplaces appreciate tasteful clothing, making this a good option.
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Versatility: Corduroy plays across levels of formality. Slim corduroy blazer in charcoal or navy may be worn for office meetings. Relaxed corduroy overshirt is a good choice of shirts for wearing with jeans on weekends.
A special mention must be made of black corduroy fabric. Black corduroy also appears more sophisticated and professional than other colours. It looks great in photos, matches with white and grey tops, and is suitable for both casual and semi-casual wear. For those working professionals in India, black corduroy trousers are convenient alternatives to ordinary formal trousers in the colder seasons of the year.
Is Corduroy Material Best for Autumn-Winter or Spring-Summer?
Honestly? Corduroy is primarily an autumn-winter fabric in Indian climate. This isn't definitive, but it is a viable solution.
October to February in the northern part of India (such as Delhi, Chandigarh, Ludhiana, Jaipur etc.) is the time when corduroy becomes relevant. The natural insulation of the fabric becomes an asset during those months. A corduroy shirt or jacket will feel comfortable in the temperature range of 10°C to 22°C, when worn over a thin cotton inner shirt.
In the coastal cities such as Mumbai or Chennai, it never really gets cold during the winter season. Clothing made from corduroy material on that will be heavy and warm. Pinwale corduroy, which is the finest type, is a bit more breathable and can be used in mild coastal winters. Corduroy is not cool enough in India for any time of year except during the summertime.
Corduroy is comfortable from November to February in moderate climatic zones such as Pune, Bengaluru, and Hyderabad. There it is actually ideal as the temperatures go down but not severely.
Wale is an important factor in the wearability of a spring. For cooler spring mornings, a light, lightweight pinwale corduroy shirt in a light colour can be worn. The rule of thumb: the closer together the wale, the more flexible in use the fabric.
Sensory Style: Unlocking Corduroy's Potential
Most fabrics don't have a sensory quality like corduroy does; it reflects light in different ways from various angles. The way light reflects off the ribs will vary depending on whether you look at them from above or below. This will add a slight depth to corduroy clothing which is not available in solid fabrics.
Colour is a key consideration because of this. Dark colors, such as chocolate brown, forest green, navy, burgundy and camel, will highlight the texture of corduroy. Lighter colors will also do, particularly pin wale, but they tend to fade easily.
Earth tones make an exceptional pairing with the texture of corduroy for Indian shades. A dark mustard or rust coloured, medium wale corduroy jacket is a good option for fair and deep skin tones.
Styling in Indian Context
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When you are going out for a casual event in the winter festivities or in a family setting, a combination of corduroy trousers with a plain cotton kurta in a contrasting colour is a very good style combination. It merges western and traditional art without being a costume.
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In a business casual atmosphere, grey or black slim cut corduroy trousers with a formal shirt are suitable office attire. Throw Chelsea boots or Oxford shoes in, and it comes across as put-together instead of casual.
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Students at college don't think much of corduroy. A wide-wale corduroy overshirt worn open over a plain tee is a deliberate outfit that's easy to wear. No ironing required. No styling overthinking.
Caring Tips for Corduroy Material
A little maintenance is required for corduroy to look good. When you neglect the care basics then the ridges flatten out, the ridges become less pronounced and the fabric will appear worn out early.
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Washing: Wash out corduroy clothes inside out. This prevents the pile from rubbing against other clothing. Use cold or lukewarm water as hot water can cause shrinkage. A gentle cycle is best for machine washing. When washing by hand, do not wring or twist.
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Drying: Avoid dry-cleaning at high temperatures. The safest method of drying is by air. Use the lowest setting on the dryer and remove when damp. Place on flat or hang it to prevent it from being stretched out of shape.
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Ironing: Don't iron corduroy straight. To remove wrinkles, turn the garment inside out and iron on a low heat setting or use a steam iron a small distance away from the garment. It is important not to iron the pile side onto the other pile directly because the ridges will be permanently flattened.
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Brushing: Pile that has flattened with wear can be restored by using a soft bristle clothes brush in the direction of the wale. This needs to be done delicately and in the direction of the nap.
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Storage: If possible, hang corduroy instead of folded storage. With time the pile may develop permanent fold lines. Use a minimum of folds, and re-fold frequently if necessary.
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